Sump Pump Prep Before Winter Hits

These steps apply to both types of pump. A submersible pump sits in the pit under water: quieter, but harder to reach without pulling it out. A pedestal pump keeps the motor above the pit with only the intake hose in the water: easier to service, but louder. 1. Inspect the pit and the pump. Clear out leaves, dirt and gravel that can clog the intake or block the float switch. Look for rust, corrosion or damage on the pump body. 2. Test it. Pour a bucket of water slowly into the pit. The pump should start on its own and empty it within a minute or two. If it won't start, runs without emptying the pit, or grinds or rattles, suspect a mechanical problem or a stuck float. A corroded, tangled or misplaced float either keeps the pump from starting or keeps it running after the pit is empty. See our sump pump page for pump service. 3. Check the power. Make sure the pump is plugged into a working GFCI outlet and the cord isn't damaged. 4. Examine the discharge line. It should be clear, uncracked, and end at least 10 feet from your foundation. A line that ends too close or sits low can freeze into an ice blockage that backs water into the pit. Insulate exposed sections and angle the outlet so water flows away instead of pooling and refreezing. 5. Clean the filter and intake screen. A season of wet weather fills them with sediment and mineral buildup. Rinse the screen, or replace it if it's damaged or badly fouled. A blocked intake makes the pump work harder and clear water slower. 6. Lubricate only if the manual says so. Some older pumps, especially pedestal designs, need oil on the motor bearings or shaft. Sealed, maintenance-free pumps don't, and oiling them can do harm. Also check basement or crawlspace ventilation: trapped humidity in a cold space breeds mold and speeds corrosion on the pump and pipes.