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How to Fix a Leaky Sink Faucet

A practical repair guide for Plainfield, IL homeowners, from shutting off the water to knowing when to call.

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What You Need Before You Start

A dripping faucet is easy to ignore, until you hear it at 2 a.m. or see the water bill. The good news: most sink faucet leaks come down to a worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge, and if you have thirty minutes and the right tools, you can fix it yourself. This guide walks through the full repair process, including the mistakes that turn a simple job into an expensive one.

If you run into something more complicated, hidden pipe damage, a leak that won't quit after two attempts, or a faucet that's simply too corroded to rebuild, our plumbing team is available around the clock at (815) 609-3150.

Tools and Materials to Gather First

Adjustable Wrench

Used to loosen and tighten packing nuts and supply line connections under the sink.

Screwdriver

Phillips or flathead depending on your handle screws. Check before you start, wrong tip strips the screw head.

Replacement Washers or O-Rings

Bring the old part to the hardware store if you're unsure of the size. An incorrect replacement will leak just as steadily as the worn one.

Plumber's Tape (Teflon Tape)

Wraps the valve stem threads before reassembly. Creates a tight seal that keeps leaks from returning at the joint.

Towel or Rag

Lay it under the work area before you open anything. Residual water in the lines will drain out the moment connections are loosened.

The Repair Process, Step by Step

Shut Off the Water Supply

Find the shut-off valves beneath the sink and turn them clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain any remaining water in the lines. If there are no under-sink valves, shut off the main supply to the house.

Disassemble and Inspect

Remove the handle screw, lift off the handle, and set it aside. Depending on the faucet type, you may need to unscrew a packing nut to pull out the valve stem. Examine every component: look for cracked washers, compressed O-rings, or a cartridge that's visibly worn. Replace only what's damaged, using parts that match the original exactly.

Reassemble and Test

Before putting anything back together, wrap the valve stem threads with plumber's tape, one full layer, wound in the direction of the threads. Clean all parts, reassemble in reverse order, and hand-tighten before using the wrench. Turn the supply valves back on slowly and watch for drips. If everything is dry, you're done.

Common Errors

Mistakes That Make the Leak Worse

Over-tightening is the most common one. It feels like the right instinct, snug it down so it can't leak, but faucet components are designed to seat at a specific torque. Too much force cracks washers, strips threads, and creates the very leak you were trying to stop. Firm is enough. If it's still dripping after a firm tighten, the problem is the part, not the pressure you're applying. Using the wrong replacement part is a close second. Washers, O-rings, and cartridges are model-specific. A part that's close but not exact won't seal correctly. If you're not sure of your faucet model, pull the old part out and match it in person at the hardware store rather than guessing by appearance. Skipping the aerator is also worth mentioning. A slow-draining faucet or irregular water flow after a repair is often the aerator, the small screen at the tip of the spout. Mineral deposits clog it over time. Unscrew it, rinse it clean, and reinstall. It takes two minutes and is easy to overlook. For more routine upkeep, see our notes on hot water heater maintenance and general plumbing care.

Chrome faucet with water dripping from the aerator

When the Job Calls for a Plumber

Lack of Experience

If you've never worked on a faucet and aren't confident reading the internal components, a professional will diagnose the problem faster and leave you with a working faucet the same day, not a half-disassembled sink.

plumber s tape teflon tape work, project example in Plainfield, IL

Complex or Hidden Issues

Some leaks originate behind the wall or at supply line joints that aren't visible from under the sink. A leak showing up in the cabinet floor, not from the faucet itself, points to a supply line or water valve problem that requires a closer look.

Persistent Leaks After Repair

If the drip continues after you've replaced the washer and checked the O-ring, the valve seat may be corroded or damaged. Resurfacing or replacing a valve seat is possible, but it requires tools most homeowners don't have on hand.

Old or Severely Corroded Faucets

A faucet that's showing heavy corrosion on the body or connections may not be worth repairing. A plumber can tell you quickly whether rebuilding makes sense or whether a full replacement is the cleaner fix.

Sewer or Pipe Involvement

Excess water from a long-running faucet leak can contribute to drain blockages or, in older homes, accelerate pipe deterioration. If you've noticed slow drains or water pooling in the basement, that's a separate issue, one worth having assessed before it compounds.

Home Warranty Coverage

If your home is covered by a warranty or service plan that includes plumbing repairs, check whether faucet leaks fall under the policy before you open anything yourself. Some plans require a licensed contractor to perform the repair for the claim to be honored.

Questions About Your Faucet or Plumbing?

Leto Plumbing & Heating has been working on Plainfield homes since 2002.

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